We bonded over that common cause, decent Italian food, and heels (the kind that you wear). I’m delighted that Jessica was willing to have a chat about the intersection of fashion and feminism, which are, to some minds, antithetical, but equally threatening F words.
Miss Cavendish: How is fashion a feminist issue?
Jessica Valenti: Well if the personal is political, then I certainly think the very personal expression of fashion certainly has to do with feminism! Not only is fashion a feminist issue because of the often-disappointing sexism of the fashion industry—but also because the way that women express themselves through fashion can be used almost as a cultural marker. (I'm thinking the 80s women-get-to-work shoulder pads and the riot grrl stylings of the early 90s.)
MC: A familiar catch phrase used to be “I’m not a feminist, but . . . I want equal pay for equal work.” Now I hear this: “I’m a feminist, but . . . I like to wear high heels.” What do you think is the perceived inappropriateness about “I’m a feminist and I like to wear high heels”?
JV: I think the idea is that heels are an evil tool of the patriarchy or something. (Though, this morning as my feet are killing me, a night after wearing some serious heels to a book event for the Nation—I'm inclined to agree!)
MC: A familiar catch phrase used to be “I’m not a feminist, but . . . I want equal pay for equal work.” Now I hear this: “I’m a feminist, but . . . I like to wear high heels.” What do you think is the perceived inappropriateness about “I’m a feminist and I like to wear high heels”?
JV: I think the idea is that heels are an evil tool of the patriarchy or something. (Though, this morning as my feet are killing me, a night after wearing some serious heels to a book event for the Nation—I'm inclined to agree!)
It's unfortunate that we keep putting all of these caveats on feminism—like you can't be a feminist if you wear mascara or heels. Of course you can! What other social justice movement polices the fashion of its activists? I understand the criticism that certain fashion choices are tied to sexism—but so are the majority of the things we do in the world, sadly.
We all have to negotiate our way through a world that's not too fond of women and we all decide what's most important to us. And I say if big tall heels are your thing—so be it! I certainly couldn't do without them.
MC: When you and a number of other bloggers met President Bill Clinton and all posed for a photo with him, one online (female) commentator critiqued not only the clothes you were wearing but your posture as being overtly sexy. How was she attempting to “read” the photo and could you reflect on both her analysis of the photo as well as her desire to engage in such analysis in the first place?
JV: Ah yes, kind of unbelievable that three books and five years of blogging later one of the first things that comes up in a Google search of my name is 'jessica valenti breasts' because of this blogger's insistence that I was wearing a deliberately too-tight top. (Judge for yourself, I say it's pretty innocuous! http://www.flickr.com/photos/93947321@N00/243422784/)
I believe this blogger didn't really think much of the photo—but was using the internet's love of anything having to do with women's breasts as a way to drive traffic and cause a controversy. I think the real issue was that we're not used to seeing young women, especially young women who look a certain way, in meetings with powerful people without assuming that something sexual is going on.
I thought of this whole faux-controversy as a reminder to all young women really, that we're there to be looked at and judged. And even if you're successful enough to be invited to a meeting with a former President, your real value is being fodder for tacky sex and intern jokes.
MC: In your recent book The Purity Myth (2009), you argue that girls are given conflicting messages about how to behave as sexual beings. How are those messages delivered via girls’ choice of clothing?
JV: Young women—even girls—are being taught that in order to be desirable they have to dress a certain way (generally pretty sexified). But if they do dress that way, then they're told that they're sluts or being too revealing. There really is no winning. I feel lucky that when I was growing up the trend was baggy pants and the like—I didn't have to deal with any of this nonsense!
MC: If you were designing the t-shirt that says “This is what a feminist looks like,” how would you style it?
JV: Wow, great question! I would take the postmodern route, have it say nothing, and let the awesome woman behind it embody the message herself. ;)
MC: And finally, what do you wear when you present in public? When you write at home?
JV: When I present in public, I generally wear a wrap dress (I have two faves, one from Theory and one from DVF) and heels.
At home, however, is another story. For a long time, I was a hot mess in sweatpants and dirty t-shirts—it's just so easy when you work from home! But I really do notice a difference when I actually dress like a normal human being in terms of how much better I do my work. So now I'm sporting lots of comfortable jeans and casual—but still fashionable enough to be seen out of the house in—shirts. And slippers. Sorry, that's one thing I can't give up!
MC: Jessica, thank you so much for this chat and for helping to demystify the relationship between fashion and feminism.